In season

June 9

In now: Jerusalem artichokes are in peak supply. Scrub the skins well, then boil, puree and serve with roast pork belly and pickled cabbage.

At its best: All colours of sweet potato are delicious right now: orange-fleshed; purple-skinned white fleshed; and white-skinned purple fleshed. Roast a rainbow.

Best buy: Tangelos are easy-peel juicy citrus much loved in the US but neglected here in favour of mandarins. Consequently there are bargains.

In the vegie patch: Sow members of the onion tribe into a sunny spot. Thin the seedlings and keep the weeds down, but don’t bother mulching the bed so that developing bulbs get some sunshine.

What else:

  • pick your own mandarins at four citrus farms in the Hawkesbury this weekend.
  • do a blindfold taste test of the green and gold kiwis. Can you pick the difference?
  • look out for wild mushrooms. I ate some beautiful King Billys at One Penny Red in Summer Hill last week, grilled, and served with Jerusalem artichoke as both puree and chips, a few curls of crisp endive leaves and the surprising but perfect counterpoint of grilled dark seedless grapes.
  • bake a whole mandarin cake, as a variant on Claudia Roden’s classic.

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